October 12th I landed in Nicaragua, not really knowing what awaited me, well the first thing was some sweltering temperatures and no sign of the fella that was supposed to pick me up! He showed up eventually and away I went. Which led, the following day to the first highlight......
Climbing the Telica volcano, it was a bit scary coming down but it was a spectacular view from the top and fortunately it was a fun couple that I was with so we could joke around and even enjoy getting soaked to the skin whilst continuously be threatened by lightning. And it gave me this classic photo......
Downside unfortunately was that was one of only a few tours I got to do in Nicaragua because it really was out of season and there weren't many people going places and they often won't do things for just one person. That left me a lot of downtime having conversations with myself and they generally don't go so well.
From there on to Panama and I have to admit to some disappointment, the nightlife was pretty dead, having heard about what a fun town it was there really wasn't much going on. However, the canal is a truly impressive piece of engineering and seeing all the boats out there waiting their turn was pretty cool.
Next stop Chile, where I still am for another 15 hours or so. This place has been amazing (although a big part of that credit goes to Bolivia). Santiago is a fun town, not exactly full of history but nicely walkable, good restaurants / bars and friendly people who try to help even if you don't speak the language. As for the Atacama and the valleys around San Pedro, amazing! And some good people in the tours.
Next up, and just finished in Bolivia. The salt flats are stunning, and a lot of fun if you're with a good group, which fortunately I was. The way to do them is definitely coming from San Pedro so you finish at the flats, coming from the north you start there and think everything else is a let down after seeing them.
Couple of downsides here, first two consecutive 4am starts which have got me exhausted and at this point hungry as well. Cue introspection and grumpiness about life in general. Second, the tour company (or the drivers) clearly think people should listen to classic Bolivian music when they are there, consequently, if I hear pan pipes any time soon I will hurt someone!
So that's three weeks in a very quick rundown, now a quick bottom/top 5 and some Q & A, let's start with the bottom 5.
Bottom 5
5. Pan pipe music - I'm not kidding, if I hear this again within the next year someone is going to get hurt, if it's live then someone is going to need some extra long tweezers to get his pan pipes back!
4. Panama City nightlife - disappointingly quiet, coupled with a not particularly safe feel.
3. Not making it up to the top of Mombacho volcano without the bus - I know I could have done it but I didn't plan for the steepness or take the breaks I should have.
2. San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua - billed as a party town but dead quiet and not particularly welcoming
1. Downtime in general - too much time to think about the past and a feeling of some wasted time.
Before we get to the top 5, let's do a couple of Q's
So, any revelations yet?
Maybe, not quite sure. I know when I started this whole thing I was cursing that I was doing it alone without a 'special someone' to share it with, albeit remotely. I started to realise in Bolivia though that the stories that are coming from this are going to last me a lifetime. Not to mention some of the pictures I've managed to get. I need to grab onto this and pull this thread a little more - and before people start telling me that they've told me this already, I know but it's one thing being told another to figure it out. See the quote at the end of this post.
Ok, so that's the personal one out of the way, now for some generic ranting - I know my readers!
What do you think about backpacking in general?
So I'm not really doing true backpacking but I've met plenty and most are great people just exploring around and loving it. However there is a good sized proportion that should have their passport taken away, these are the privileged teenagers / students who either expect things to be laid on a plate for them or have over inflated opinions of what they are doing. Some examples
> When a 20 year old asks his group "what's been your most inspirational experience" you know they're full of it! Get some realism and enjoy being 20, I wish I could.
> Complaining that the buses aren't being very well organised at 5000m elevation on the Bolivian altiplano and people only speak Spanish. You're in Bolivia, in the middle of a desert, learn how to work through some inconveniences. (Side note, the generic comment about South American people only being prepared to speak Spanish was made on a bus with four Chilean people I'd just done the salt flats tour with, two of which were great help translating, and one of which kept apologising because her English wasn't very good. Be aware of your surroundings people!)
In contrast to this is the group that we were with in Bolivia, a real mixed group with the 18 year old German guys, Javier from Spain (our senior citizen) and just a great mix of people enjoying themselves. You find the right group and it's solid gold!
Any regrets?
Of course, there always are.
Top of the list is that I think I'm a little too structured in my itinerary, whilst it does allow me to get to see everything I wanted to it also doesn't let me shuffle things around if something comes up, a group is going a different way that I want to join and such like. Again, it's trade offs.
I think I should have stayed in a few more hostels. It's nice every now and then to stay somewhere with hot water and a single room but I think I have the ratio off a bit. Having said this, after the South Africa leg I may change my tune.
So how greasy am I right now having spent 4 days on the Bolivian Altiplano?
Very! One place had showers but only very slightly warm. I have at least changed my underwear every day, however my hair is just nasty and I could really use a hot shower ASAP. Not long and my clothes will be able to walk on their own.
How's the Spanish coming?
Errrrr......... Could be better. I can't stop speaking Chinese! I'm getting better but I'm trying to soak up the culture, the language and the surroundings all at once and it's total overload at times.
That'll do for now for the Q & A. Now my top five so far......
TOP 5
5. The park dancing in Santiago last Sunday. I have video but I can't post it on YouTube for some reason so that will likely have to wait to show but apparently every Sunday they close one of the main roads by the river and just by where I was staying in the park they have a stage and the cyclists stop off and get led in a dance to all kinda of music - just awesome. I had the biggest smile when I saw this.
4. The people - I mean the locals. My Spanish is atrocious and everyone has been so accommodating to help me get where I need to be and stuff. Thank you!
3. The food - all the local places I've been to have been great, good meats, cooked well. I don't think I've had a bad meal yet and that includes the meals in Bolivia.
2. Climbing Volcan Telica - good company, good challenge, drama and excitement, who could ask for more!
1. Bolivian Altiplano and salt flats - this has to be the winner for the amazing scenery at 4000m elevation and the group we were with, entertaining, personable and just all around fantastic. Only thing that tells on this is the two 4am wake up calls but that's a small price to pay.
So that's it for now, I'm landing in Santiago soon so all my posts from the last few days will be going up soon. Tomorrow it's a bus ride across the Andes into Argentina wine country.
I will leave you with some words of wisdom:
"After all, when you seek advice from someone it's certainly not because you want them to give it. You just want them to be there while you talk to yourself."
- Terry Pratchett
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